Experience Île de Ré in Style Without Breaking the Bank
Ever wondered how to enjoy the chic Île de Ré without burning a hole in your wallet? It’s possible, and it’s more stylish than you might think. But here’s where it gets interesting: you don’t have to sacrifice comfort for affordability. Let me show you how.
The French have mastered the art of camping, but on Île de Ré, it’s taken to a whole new level. Take Slow Village in St-Martin-de-Ré, for instance. While technically a holiday village, it offers the communal vibe of a campsite—think friendly neighbors and a deep connection with nature. But don’t imagine tents and sleeping bags; picture this: a sleek, black cabin inspired by oyster huts, complete with a dishwasher. Yes, you read that right. You’ll sleep on cozy mattresses with provided linen and share a private shower with your travel companions. It’s glamping without the pretentious price tag, and it’s perfect for families, especially with kids. Ours, aged three and one, absolutely loved it.
This setup is one of the most budget-friendly ways to enjoy this beloved island, which sees its population skyrocket from 18,000 to 144,000 in the summer. Located off France’s west coast, Île de Ré is a gem. A night at Slow Village starts at £116 during peak season, and that includes access to a swimming pool, tennis and padel courts (equipment provided), and more. Plus, it’s car-optional—La Rochelle airport is just a 20-minute taxi ride away, and once on the island, everyone gets around by bike.
During our spring stay, Slow Village was buzzing with French families, many of whom gathered at mealtimes, saucepans in hand, creating a warm, communal atmosphere. The amenities are impressive: an outdoor pool (a bit chilly in May), a farm with goats and sheep, a veggie patch for guests, a laundry room, and a playground. The Slow Club, a playroom led by an arts graduate named Matilde, offers painting workshops and vervain tea for parents, all set to the tunes of Jack Johnson. It’s a place where conversations flow as easily as the tea, and we met couples from both South London and Paris.
Key Details
- Location: Across the bridge from La Rochelle (£3-£13 by car, depending on the season), off France’s west coast.
- Who’s It For?: Families, cyclists, and beach lovers.
- Insider Tip: Don’t miss the ice cream at La Martinière in St-Martin-de-Ré and La Flotte—locals swear it’s the best on the island. And plan extra time when leaving; the queues can be long.
Bicycles are the lifeblood of the island, and renting two bikes with child seats cost us £67 for four days. The cycle paths are lively, especially the route to La Flotte, which feels like London’s cycle superhighways—but with babies and French bulldogs in trailers. And this is the part most people miss: the true test of a seasoned cyclist here is balancing two baguettes under one arm without wobbling.
Exploring by bike is ideal, and you’ll find everything you need nearby. There’s a great bakery, Do Ré Mie, just down the road from Slow Village, along with an Intermarché, Lidl, and Decathlon. It’s not as rural as I expected, though the countryside is charming, with fields of red poppies, wheat, and vines. The roundabout in Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré, adorned with alliums, roses, and overlooked by a windmill, is a highlight.
St-Martin-de-Ré, just a 10-minute cycle away, is famous for its free-roaming donkeys (historically used to ward off mosquitoes) and the star-shaped 17th-century Vauban fortifications, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. While the defensive walls are fun to explore, the real draw for kids is the ice cream shop by the elegant harbor.
Controversial Opinion Alert: While the donkeys are charming, some might argue that the island’s true allure lies in its artisanal shops and galleries. What do you think—donkeys or art? Let me know in the comments!
La Martinière lives up to the hype, with over 47 gelato flavors. Our favorites? Blackcurrant and caramel with local sea salt. It’s a hit with families, though I couldn’t help but feel a pang of solidarity with the moms trying to keep chocolate-covered toddlers from ruining their trendy jeans.
The island is a haven for artisanal products, from tinned fish shops to galleries showcasing eye-catching art. In one gallery, I overheard the owner telling an American artist, ‘Your candy piece will sell instantly. Kids will love it.’ And speaking of kids, ours adored the merry-go-rounds, even in the smallest villages. When we couldn’t find cash for a ride in Loix, a nearby playground with a giant wooden whale saved the day. We lunched at La Route du Sel, enjoying galettes and chips (mains from £13), and later visited the 14th-century church of St Catherine, with its stunning stained glass by Aramis Pentecôte and a galleon model suspended from the ceiling.
The northwest side of the island is dominated by salt marshes, where sauniers still harvest salt by hand. We cycled to Plage du Grouin, taking in the serene, almost Kentish landscape, dotted with egrets, pheasants, and fishermen. The beach was muddy at low tide, but it was perfect for a quiet moment on a bench surrounded by tiny snails. Unfortunately, the western tip of the island, home to the Phare des Baleines lighthouse, was too far for our little ones—a 13-mile cycle is no small feat with toddlers.
The southern beaches are more family-friendly. Gros Joncs beach, backed by dunes, offers lifeguards and surf lessons, while Plage de Montamer near St-Marie-de-Ré has a mix of pebbles and sand, shaded by a green park with a boules court, picnic benches, and a playground. St-Marie-de-Ré itself is charming, with fields of cane and wildflowers leading to the central square, Place d’Antioche. Here, you’ll find another merry-go-round (yes, it takes cards), boutiques, and Le Chai, a lovely restaurant with a set lunch menu and kid-friendly options (mains from £15).
Our favorite excursion, however, was to the Abbaye des Châteliers, east of La Flotte. Surrounded by poppy fields, the ruins of the 12th-century abbey and 13th-century gothic church offered a peaceful escape. While the kids explored freely, I reflected in the former refectory, imagining the monks’ silent meals.
Back at Slow Village, the atmosphere was lively, with someone strumming Lady Gaga’s Always Remember Us This Way on a guitar. The next morning, the bins were overflowing with bottles from the previous night’s Champions League celebrations. It’s this communal spirit that makes Slow Village special. As for Île de Ré, we’ve still got 45 ice cream flavors to try—care to join us?
Thought-Provoking Question: Is glamping the future of budget travel, or does it defeat the purpose of ‘roughing it’? Share your thoughts below!
This article contains affiliate links that may earn us revenue. Jenny Coad was a guest of Slow Village, which offers room-only cabins for four from £70 (slow-village.com). Fly to La Rochelle or Nantes.
